Tradition in the Mountains

Good breakfast, and off early for a visit to a village designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the mountains south of Kanazawa. Sun was shining and our guide told us this is very lucky to have no rain while we are here. She says this is a very wet place with rain, snow and humidity all the time. We are thankful even though it is still cold.

I thought there was a lot of snow at Hakone and on Mt. Fuji. I was wrong. There is lots and lots more snow in these mountains! Snow plows, 10 feet high snow banks, beautiful, glistening and bright. The village, Ainokura Gassho-zukuri, has a total population of 60 and tries very hard to keep things as authentic as they can. Their homes are unique and found only in this area of Japan. Interestingly enough, the homes are quite large and some are hundreds of years old. They were built to withstand the harsh winters and deep snow. There are no nails with the first floor using sturdy oak beams to support the steep, reed thatched roof. Rope is used to attach the thatch---fascinating construction techniques.

Time for a snack so we get to help make mochi. Cook some rice, put it in a specially made wooden bowl and pound the heck out of it!(Most modern Japanese now use a machine.) Makes a gooey, rather glutinous mass that is dipped in various condiments and is rather tasty. A very typical Japanese treat.

Gokayama is another quaint town most noted for its washi paper making. So, of course, we get to make our own postcards, skipping the most arduous first 8 steps in this interesting process. Our paper teacher, with an American apprentice, is patient and we have fun dipping our screens into the "goop" and gently shaking them to produce thin, perfectly shaped cards---ha, ha! Our creations are not bad for first efforts and we get to shop while waiting for our paper to dry. 

Washi paper is used for many different items---lamps, books, boxes, origami, art, purses---but it is most famous for use in house construction on shoji screens. Washi has been used for centuries and Gokayama washi was the most prized by the Shoguns of earlier centuries. So, I had to buy a couple pieces of beautiful paper.

Time for a traditional mountain lunch, much of the food being preserved from autumn harvest. Rhubarb, radish, fern, mushrooms, and other known/unknown root veggies plus rice and miso soup---tasty. The restaurant owners then taught us how to play their wooden instruments and danced to our poor attempts to keep a beat. 

Explored the small town and got to meet Mr. Murakami and tour his 350 year old home. He was in traditional garb with a very unusual straw hat, found only in this region. He gave a history of the house and we climbed the very precarious stairs/ladders to the second and third floors. This enabled us to see up close how the thatch is put on the rafters and we marveled how much work it would be to replace every 20-30 years.

On the bus home we stopped at an overlook of another picturesque mountain town that is more popular with tourists so crowded and, as Saeko says, not what OAT likes. This travel group tries very hard to keep the trip as authentic as possible and, I believe, they do a good job.

While driving back to Kanazawa we cross many colorful bridges, another area feature not found in other parts of Japan. I have not really described the scenery and would say it looks like Lake Tahoe/Sierras with winding roads, lots of streams, mixed forests, numerous villages, and plenty of snow! There are quite a few hydro dams and, because we go back a different way than the steep and twisty way in, the expressway is straight and has many, many long tunnels. As we near the hotel I spot my first thrift store, a "recycle" store here. Not too many but becoming more popular, particularly with young girls.

Arrival in Kanazawa, then out to dinner with Sheila, Jerry and our guide. She takes us to a very traditional Japanese restaurant where we have our own little room and she orders typical Japanese food. I eat everything except sushi, with chopsticks, and wash it down with sake. Fun and entertaining and nice to get to know Saeko a bit better.



Too tired to finish the blog so writing this in the morning before leaving for Kyoto. Off to breakfast.