We arrive early, the shops are just opening, and the place is swarming with people. At first it looks like any other shrine, orange torii gate, second covered gate and the main shrine.
However, the gates are guarded by two foxes instead of the usual lions and the fox theme is repeated throughout this large, mountainous complex. What makes this shrine worth visiting is behind the main buildings. There are thousands (no definite number listed) of torii gates, all orange, all carved, creating a tunnel of purification. Some are large, many small and all donated by various families who wanted a favor from Inari. A wonderful experience. On the way out I am tempted by all the food and souvenirs so break down and buy some candy. Each of the shrines/temples we have visited have this kind of gauntlet of shops lining the route to a busy tourist destination---can't say the Japanese aren't good capitalists!
The bus ride to Nara, about an hour from Kyoto, has Saeko trying to teach us Japanese characters. We are laughing at our feeble attempts to guess their meaning. She also gives us some interesting facts and figures(Kyoto is the first city to have electricity)and we have a discussion about the health care system. The countryside becomes more suburban with malls, big box stores and lots of bamboo covering the hills.
The bus ride to Nara, about an hour from Kyoto, has Saeko trying to teach us Japanese characters. We are laughing at our feeble attempts to guess their meaning. She also gives us some interesting facts and figures(Kyoto is the first city to have electricity)and we have a discussion about the health care system. The countryside becomes more suburban with malls, big box stores and lots of bamboo covering the hills.
Arrival in Nara has us using the first bathroom facilities without heated toilet seats---we are disappointed! Lunch is in a small traditional noodle shop down a couple alleys and we all wonder how they find these delicious restaurants? Wandering after eating I stumble on the 100 year old Naramachi House open to the public. It is beautiful and I start talking to a mother and daughter visiting from China. They are trying on the kimonos available to anyone who has the ability to put them all together. Laughing, they convince me to "dress up"! It is so much fun with limited English, complicated tying and adjusting of the kimono, but we manage to get me dressed and photographed. Of course, I then have to undo the obi, the second tie, the kimono and rush to put on my shoes and get back to the bus on time! What a fun memory.
The famous Nara deer are roaming the town as we drive to Todaiji Temple. The deer are tame and relatively harmless and the vendors make a fortune selling "deer cookies". As soon as you buy a pack you are surrounded by deer who will butt you, bite your clothes and generally become a nuisance until the cookies are gone. Then on to the next unsuspecting visitor! I have too much fun watching others and photographing the scene to bother buying my own. As we dodge deer we can see an enormous wooden gate ahead, truly an amazing building feat. But the actual Temple comes into view and the gate seems small by comparison. The Temple was burned three times so this one was only completed in the late 1700's. It is still the largest wooden structure in the world---187' wide, 166' deep, 160' tall. Inside is a gold covered bronze Vairocana Buddha, 60' tall and truly jaw-dropping! I could go on and on but, suffice it to say, I was awed. The grounds are surrounded by a Buddhist University and a lovely park as well as the ever present shops and food stalls, with deer wandering everywhere. I have to say this Temple will not be forgotten.
Last shrine of the day is Kasuga Shinto shrine, famous for its hundreds of stone lanterns. Much more peaceful and quiet, it sits on the hillside with paths lined with old, moss covered lanterns. A lovely ending to this visit to Nara.
Dinner on my own and, I have to admit, I buy a Subway sandwich and stop at the grocery store for fruit and cookies. I do go into the very busy bookstore and have a fun time browsing. It seems that most Japanese still buy real books and anime is the most popular section. There are no books in English but, in the children's section, I recognize quite a few well known authors. Enjoyable for the "book lady"!
I get tired just reading about all you do every day. Thanks for taking the time to tell us about it.
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